Like most fine things in life, decent leather tack is an investment. And like any other investment, you need to take proper care of it.
Leather gear should be cleaned regularly (ideally after each use, though this isn’t practical for most busy riders) to remove sweat and dirt, and to keep it supple.
There are shelves full of cleaning products in the market, ranging from old-fashioned glycerine, neatsfoot oil and tins of saddle soap through to newer products that condition and waterproof at the same time.
A once-over with a barely damp cloth is sufficient after your daily ride, but for a thorough cleaning session, first you’ll need to take gear like your bridle, breastplate and martingale apart, and remove the stirrup leathers and girth from your saddle.
Remove caked-on mud or dust first, using a damp cloth. Then, you’ll need some kind of leather soap or cleanser. Use a damp sponge (wring it out hard so it’s not sopping wet) and apply it to both sides of the leather; you shouldn’t use so much that it lathers. Wipe off the excess with a clean, damp cloth and then apply oil or leather conditioner.
At this stage, your leather should look clean and have a deep shine, but it won’t look wet. You can buff or polish it to a shine with a dry cloth, and then put it all back together.
New gear needs special care. You will need to condition it before you use it, with a product recommended by the manufacturer. Many new saddles will come with a small container of the recommended conditioning product, or ask at your local tack shop. Condition both sides of the leather, working it in with warm hands to help the pores absorb it. Repeat the treatment every few months, particularly after if your tack gets saturated from rain.
Leather care tips
- Store your leather tack in a cool, dry place. A dehumidifier will help if your tack room is damp. If you have to store it for an extended period, put it in a cloth bag, and include some silica gel or other desiccant sachets to absorb moisture. Make sure your gear is out of reach of dogs, cats and rats!
- Inspect your tack regularly for wear and tear. On saddles, check all rivets, D-rings and stitching, especially where the girth straps are attached to the saddle. Look for enlarged or stretched holes, and worn leather. Pay special attention to your stirrup leathers. On bridles, reins, girths and other accessories, inspect the stitching, studs and pressure points where the leather is folded or the buckles rub. Girths with elastic ends may show signs of fraying, or the elasticity may deteriorate.
- Repair or replace any worn out pieces before they break. Many saddleries offer repair services at very reasonable rates. Not only will this save you money, but it will greatly reduce the risk of a nasty accident from a broken rein, girth or stirrup leather.
- Hang your leather bridles and halters on round hangers (you can make your own from an off-cut of plastic piping or even by nailing up (washed) tin cans) rather than a nail or a hook, to preserve the shape of the headpiece and prevent cracking.
- An old toothbrush can get into hard-to-reach places.
- Bits and metal stirrup irons can be soaked in a bucket of warm water, then scrubbed clean, or you can run them through your dishwasher.
Saddle savvy
Sweat and soap are the enemies of leather, because they will cause it to dry out, become brittle and crack. No amount of oil will bring leather back to life if it becomes crisp and crackly.
So, replenishing moisture is the main aim when it comes to caring for your saddle.
Saddle soaps, as the name explains, are for cleansing only. And just like if you left soap on your own hands, they will dry out your leather if you don’t rinse them off after use.
You can replace the moisture that is stripped out by sweat and soap by using some kind of replenishing product, such as an oil or beeswax product. Make sure you use a product meant for leather though – olive oil is meant for cooking, and baby oil is for babies! Use oil sparingly, as it will darken the leather and can discolour things it comes into contact with, such as your breeches and gloves.
Be especially wary of over-oiling the flaps of your saddle and your stirrup leathers, as it can make them too soft and flexible.
Saddles will be happy if you give them at least a quick wipe over with a just-damp cloth after every use, and a thorough clean once a week. Store your saddle on a rack that is ideally the same length as the gullet, either free-standing or wall-mounted, and that supports it from pommel to cantle.
Avoid a rack that’s too wide, as it can cause the panels of your saddle to change shape.
Don’t put a wet or damp saddle cloth over the top of your saddle to air, as the moisture and dirt will seep on to the saddle. A specially-made saddle cover is a great idea to keep out excess dirt while your saddle is not in use.
Mould and mildew
Mildew indicates that your leather has at least enough moisture in it to sustain life! But you need to deal with it so it doesn’t contaminate the leather completely.
If you live somewhere with a humid climate, such as from the Waikato north, you will be well used to dealing with mould. Remember that mould spread easily, so if you have mildewed tack to clean, take it outside to prevent the spores from spreading around the tack room to the rest of your gear.
Brush it off first, with a hard, stiff brush. If you can, put it in the sun for a couple of hours to help kill the mould and mildew. Then, treat with a very light white vinegar wash before cleaning and conditioning as normal.
Preventing mould is sometimes easier said than done, but if you can afford it, a dehumidifier in your tack room is a worthwhile investment. There are also products such as DampRid, that you can buy from a supermarket, that will absorb moisture from small rooms and cupboards.
If you keep your tack in a bag, throw in a few of the silica gel packages that come with many supplements (and tech equipment).
Riding in the rain
Coming in from a ride in the rain with your precious gear dripping wet can cause anxiety – and it’s even worse if you’ve had a dunking in a water jump or a stream.
Rest assured though, water won’t damage the leather, as long as you take care of it properly afterwards.
Contrary to what you might have been told at pony club, don’t let your gear dry right out before you deal with it, in order to prevent the water getting into the structural protein bonds in the leather.
The first step is to towel-dry your gear as best you can, undoing any buckles. Then, slather the leather in your conditioner of choice, and let the tack dry out of direct sunlight. The leather will soak up the conditioner, and the next day will be soft and supple again (if a bit sticky). The oils in the conditioner will prevent the water from bonding to the protein of the leather, and prevent cracking.
Rein them in
Most riders have strong preferences for a certain type of rein, be they webbing, rubber or leather. Here’s how to clean them all.
Rubber: Don’t use oil or saddle soap on the rubber parts, just on the leather sections. Plain water is the best way to remove sweat and grime from rubber.
Laced/plaited leather: Laced reins are gorgeous, but their design means they are a magnet for dirt. Using a soft, old toothbrush is the best way to get into the crevices to prevent build-up. Then, use a conditioner and you’re good to go.
Webbing: A nylon brush will remove dried sweat and hair, then dip in warm water with a few drops of mild washing-up liquid and scrub gently. Use a section of cloth wrapped around a finger to apply leather conditioner to the stoppers.
