The relaxing of show rules over recent years has encouraged more colourful and comfortable equestrian fashion, a trend that continues this season. Alicia Readman, the owner/designer at Beyond The Bit, who is based in the Waikato, brings out on-trend pieces every year, and in spring it’s all about the new colours.
Alicia sells her Beyond The Bit range in Europe, where her customers prefer very clean lines. However, she says, New Zealand riders still love detailing. Alicia’s BTB Hunter breech, with a darker seat and back zip-pockets, is always a best-seller here. High-waisted styles are also very popular.
Porscha Pearce, owner and designer at Tauranga’s Ridir Clothing, says long-sleeved tops are hot right now, especially with lace or mesh sleeves with a contrasting cuff in darker shades. Porscha tends to use a lot of sports knits in her range, mainly because they are lightweight, fast-drying and comfortable.
“The trend of being matchy-matchy (both rider and horse) is huge at the moment. My biggest advice would be not to get too carried away, as sometimes it’s over-done and is distracting. Diamantes have been big for the last few years, but this trend has started to slow down and become a bit more sleek, with diamante trim on the collar and pockets, simple and tidy.”
Finally, ‘tights, tights and more tights’ are still in strong demand. “I designed all our jodhpurs around sports tights many years ago, but in the last year or two they have gone crazy. This is mainly due to fitness clothing becoming fashionable, regardless of whether people are doing any exercise or not!
“Tights are great as they are super comfy and versatile, but the biggest thing to remember with tights is that just because you can get them on doesn’t mean they fit! Make sure you choose the right size and waist height. If you’re pulling them up all the time, sometimes it means they are actually too small, not too big.”
Picking the right jacket
A beautiful riding coat is an investment and will probably be the most expensive item in your wardrobe, so it’s worth taking the time to find one that fits like a glove and flatters your proportions.
Auckland tailor Jenny Dittmer, whose previous business Horse & Home custom-made riding jackets, explains that the best length of coat is very much related to the rider. “If you are short in the body but long in the leg, then wearing a slightly longer jacket will balance you out. If you are long in the body and short in the leg, wear your jacket slightly shorter to make your legs look longer,” she says.
“I like to see the jacket bottom skim the saddle, so if possible try the jacket on when seated. However, never, ever wear it so short that you can see most of your bottom when sitting in the saddle. That is not an equestrian jacket – it’s a cardigan!”
Another point to consider is that there needs to be enough room in your jacket for you to move and stretch. “But also remember that the first time you put on a tailored jacket it will feel restrictive. Give it time and a few wears, as wool has this amazing ability to mould to your body shape.”
Jenny points out that when choosing an expensive jacket you will probably want it to last for a number of years and be worn on various coloured horses. Although you might be drawn to bold patterns or colours, a subtle shade will be much more versatile.
Dress right for your body type
Shape can be more influential than size when it comes to finding clothes that flatter. Follow these tips from our experts to enhance your proportions.
Rectangle (athletic, not curvy, with shoulders the same width as the hips)
If you’re straight-up-and-down, highlighting the thinnest part of your waist can create the illusion of curves.
“Popping a belt on instantly gives you a waist,” says Alicia. “And these people can probably get away with having a top in a contrasting colour, which creates that break.”
A jacket that is tapered at the waist and flares over the hips also gives shape and is much more flattering than a boxy one.
Hourglass shaped (well-defined waist, with bust in proportion to hips)
If you’re lucky enough to be this shape, you don’t have too much to worry about as you’ll look good in most things. However, even on a perfectly proportioned figure, higher-waisted breeches tend to be more flattering.
“Low hipster styles make your legs look shorter, so unless you have really long legs, it’s better to elongate that waistband,” says Alicia.
Apple shaped (shapely legs, fuller bust, weight around the middle)
Apple shapes can visually elongate their appearance by adding definition to their waist.
“If you can have your jacket nipped in at the waist and slightly flared around the hip, this will give you shape,” advises Jenny.
This can be a tricky body type when it comes to finding breeches to fit. Look for a comfort-fit waistband that allows you to wear pants that are small enough in the leg but large enough in the waist. For everyday wear at home, riding tights are usually a great option for apple shapes.
If you’re on the larger side on top, steer clear of shirts with large patterns and bright colours. Go for a sleek style with darker sides and a white bib at the front.
Pear (Narrow waist, smaller bust, bigger bottom half)
If you’re a pear, aim to highlight your slimmer upper half, while elongating and balancing your figure by keeping it simple around the hips.
“If you’re small on the top and bigger through the bottom, draw attention to your top half, for example with detail on your collar or a bright shirt,” says Porscha.
Breeches with pockets in the right place can have lifting and slimming effect. Steer clear of full pockets that sit too low. Instead look for pockets that are positioned up towards the waistband. “For women with bigger bottoms, I wouldn’t encourage them to go for a flap pocket, because that is extra bulk on the back. I would advise a flat pocket. The sleeker the style of breech, the better it will be,” says Alicia.
Colours are also important. Alicia suggests keeping your colours similar from head to toe, which will elongate your body. “If you keep within a colour palate, it will make you look slimmer. Colour-wise, darker colours are more flattering than lighter colours. I don’t think you can get away from navy – I haven’t seen it look terrible on anybody. Dark grey also looks really smart.”
Pants with more structure and support are usually better than pull-on tights for bottom-heavy riders. Denim breeches can be a great option, as they tend to hold everything in place.
Inverted triangle (Top-heavy with broad shoulders, narrow hips and legs)
If you’re this body type, aim to tone down the top half while adding volume and curves to your bottom.
When it comes to choosing a competition shirt, Jenny suggests picking a dark colour and keeping away from bold design features such as ‘blingy’ embellishment. If you’re looking for a casual riding shirt, V-necks are very flattering on top-heavy figures.
It can be quite difficult to find a jacket to fit this body type, as a lot of shaping has to go into the front of the jacket to fit the bust, but still show off a smaller waist, explains Jenny. “Often if it fits in the bust, it is too baggy through the middle. If this is you, then please spend a bit of money getting the jacket re-fitted by a good seamstress. Also look for a jacket where the top button is slightly lower than normal – even 1-2cm will make a difference,” she says.
What you wear underneath your jacket can also make a difference. A thinner shirt and a good sports bra or even a double-bra can help keep things streamlined.
If you’re plus-sized
A well-made plus-size jacket can make you feel a million dollars, says Porscha. “A lot of women who come to me say they have been wearing a men’s jacket. This does you no favours, as men’s jackets lack shape and are very broad in the shoulders. Nothing beats a well-made black or navy jacket. Don’t be afraid of shoulder pads! They add structure to your shoulder and the jacket as a whole will fit so much better.”
Top Tips for all shapes
– It’s more slimming to have breeches that are lighter coloured with a darker coloured seat, rather than the other way around. This is because your eye is drawn to the darker outline first.
– White breeches are tricky. Go for a thicker fabric to hide any imperfections.
– It’s always flattering to have your shirt tucked in and wear a belt, regardless of your size or shape. Untucked shirts look messy and add bulk.
– A wide, flat waistband is more comfortable and looks better on everyone.
– Wear a thin shirt underneath the tighter technical fabric jackets to reduce bulk. Also, steer clear of large belts under these, to avoid unflattering bulges.
– When picking colours, consider what will work with the colour of your horse, your tack and your buckles.
– You don’t need to spend a heap of money on all the latest trends to look good. Just make sure everything is tidy and tucked in and your tie or stock is pinned down.
This article was first published in the November 2019 issue of NZ Horse & Pony
